On our programme today we had a guided tour to and through Harlem.
Our guide pointed out all the different landmarks along the way: Strawberry Fields at Central Park, Columbia University, the Cotton Club, ... As we entered Harlem he explained how the place received its name from the first Dutch settlers, who called it after Haarlem in Holland, and how the neighbourhood changed over the years, from a agricultural area for Dutch farmers to the place where the Latinos lived and then the Afro-Americans who were pushed further north by the other inhabitants of New York. The bad reputation of Harlem dates essentially back to racial riots in the 60's, and at this moment, the borough has become popular and apartments and houses fetch very high prices.
We arrived at the narrow street lined by wooden houses dating back to the 1880's, called Sulvan Terrace, and the Morris Jumel Mansion, built on a hill and with an intriguing story about the lady of the house whose two husbands died in mysterious circumstances...
Our next stop was the Apollo theatre. Mr Mitchell welcomed us and told us the history of this temple of music where many superstars performed and were discovered during the Amateur Nights: Ella Fitzgerald, Michael Jackson, Stevie Wonder, ...
As a finishing touch, the audience was invited to perform on stage. Dai opened the show with an excellent interpretation of Billy Joel's I've got NY on My Mind and the two Siljes sang the Norwegian national anthem. We applauded as hard as we could.
By now, it was time for some "soul food" and that's exactly what we got at Sylvia's. An excellent meal of chicken, fish and ribs with rice, greens and potato salad followed by banana pudding was served in a cosy restaurant. Pictures of famous people adorned the walls.
Happy (and full) we got back on the bus and could choose where to be dropped off. I decided to try my luck at the Metropolitan museum, where I wanted to see the Impressionists (again). I try to collect them in my head, as I don't have the money to do otherwise... I had forgotten how huge this museum is and how easily you can get lost and run out of time. The paintings were magnificent as ever. Unfortunately, the American Wing was closed and I couldn't see any Hoppers or Homers.
When I left the Met, it started drizzling. I strolled through Central Park and walked back to the hotel along 5th avenue. The rain was getting heavier, by the time I reached the hotel, it was pouring and I was drenched.
Rain, in a city like NY, means the sky is coming down on you. It feels as if you're bunkered in between grey concrete walls of buildings left and right, black tarmac street under your feet and threatening clouds overhead. Umbrellas bar your sight and people hurry and scurry at a faster pace.
This unfortunate weather condition has helped me come to this conclusion : I don't like New York in the rain...
but it can lead to original pictures like the one atop this text.
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